A Selected Guide
Most problems are starts to recognised climbs so do not have distinct names or grades. The problems are graded into four categories.
VO - Easy
V1 - Medium (rock boots recommended)
V2 - V4 - Hard
V5+ - Severe (Train hard for these!)
Rankins Rape 4m V0
A short crack problem two metres left of Cox's Edge. Don't use the light pole!
Bufo Marinus Traverse 4m V5
Start at Moonlight Fantasia and traverse right to By Ignorance. This problem is very hard on small crimps and rarely repeated.
The Big Traverse approx 200m V1
Start at Moonlight Fantasia and traverse left along the cliff base to the tree left of Tiger Stripe. Finish with numerous chin-ups on the tree branches. The cruxes are at Cucumber Castle, Idiot Wind and The Rasp. Very pumpy if done all the way without rests. A walkman, food and a sleeping bag is recommended for this epic!
Fantastic 5m V0
Up the blank corner and face at the start of Anonymous Arete. Quite delicate in places. A spotter could be useful.
Chip-a-Holdaway Start 2m V1
Balancy slab start below Chip-a-Holdaway to ledge.
Hanger Wall Arete Area 2m V0 - V5
Start at the small roof at the start of Hanger Wall Arete. Various dyno and reach problems exist here with most involving surmounting the roof on sloping holds. Try and avoid the ugly glue stains.
Idiot Wind High Traverse 3m V2
Instead of traversing down low start up Idiot Wind and traverse left along the break on good holds about two metres off the ground. A good finger reach move with no footholds. A spotter could be useful.
Exterminator 6m V2
Start below The Rasp. Heel hook the block and reach above for the thin flake. Up past this to jugs and downclimb on either side. A spotter is needed.
Around the World 10m V1
Start at Tuesday Afternoon Walk and traverse left and down low to a squat stance at block. Dyno from this to high jug and then traverse right past drill hole and down to the start again. Repeat until pumped. Picture
Drill Hole 2m V1
Start below drill hole at start of Plunging for Mudbunnies. Layback the drill hole edge to an undercling. Various alternatives exist on this wall.
The Dish 2m V0 - V4
Start just left of Move Over Brussell Sprout. Various small crimp problems exist on this small wall. Most involve getting to the sloping hold to the right of the drill hole. Eliminate as many holds as possible.
The Bulge 2m V0 - V4
Start below the small bulge two metres right of the start of Tiger Stripe. Using two small holds dyno for the ledge above or alternatively work upwards on small crimps to the ledge for more of a finger workout.
Chubba Chips Mods Start 3m V1
Balance up to small holds and dyno to the big sharp jug. Traverse right and downclimb to finish.
Pocket Puller 4m V5
Up pockets just right of Gash Flash. A tendon snapper!