GENERAL INFO
The cliff is a black slab of compact volcanic trachyte. Good edges and the occasional pocket create routes of a surprisingly easy nature. Climbs are bolted with stainless steel expansion bolts with fixed hangers and most routes have lower-off anchors. Like most of the Glasshouse Mountains, this cliff suffers from wet weather. If it has been raining, give it a few days to dry out before visiting.

ACCESS

This crag is situated on the north-east shoulder about 10m R of the route Rock Garden (about 200m R of Black Orpheus). A small cave at the far R of the crag can be used as a rain shelter or for gear storage.

Walking time from car: 30 minutes
Cliff direction: NE facing

Routes are listed from L to R. 

The first routes are on an obvious detached pillar with FH's.

1) Sunburnt Buttress First Pitch 25m 18
Glue in carrot bolts up plated slab just left of pillar. Some less than perfect rock near top. Rap of U-bolts or continue up further 5 pitches above at grade 19.
FFA Neil Monteith & Lee Skidmore 2000

2) Peeping Tom 8m 18
First route on pillar with FH near top. Boulder start to crack - up this to stance. Climb the face above past FH to juggy top. Tree belay. A bit dirty at start.
Neil Monteith, Stephen Monteith 7/1/1997

3) Kitsch 9m 22 *
Good stuff! Starts at same point as PT, but traverse directly R to first of three black FH's. A pronounced crux lunge will get you to the second, then it keeps you going past the final FH to top. Rap off tree or downclimb corner.
Lee Skidmore, Aaron Jones, Neil Monteith 2/4/2000

4) Sweet Flower Girl 10m 27+ (open project) Very contrived since the addition of K. Start 1.5m R of K. Up very thin face past bolt to easier ground. Has not even been top-roped. A likely finish would be up K. Attempted by Marten Blumen, Neil Monteith 10/1996   5) Suburban Sprawl 15m 22 * A technical wake-up call. Start 2m R of SFG. Jug up to FH. Hard moves lead to second FH. Traverse L and up to big jug. Slam in #2 flexible SLCD behind jug and climb up to crack (SLCD). Traverse R and up to tree belay. Neil Monteith 24/3/1996

Above: Took Smits on Peeping Tom

Suburban Sprawl Variant 15m 21
From second FH climb up and R to finish up D.
FTRA Karl Curnow 16/3/1996

6) Domestos 15m 16
Start 2m R of SS. Up very thin crack (RP's) to dirty face above. Up this very boldly with no pro to toilet-bowl stance then slab up to tree belay. Dangerous.
Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 24/3/1996

The next routes are on the main wall about 5m R of the pillar.

7) Vagabond 35m 15
Start on wall about 10m R of pillar at odd looking rock face. Up on good positive edges with marginal protection for ten metres. Keep climbing upwards past cracks until on ledge with big loose block. Climb up the wall on the R side of this to slab and tree belay on L. Reasonable protection and good rock.
Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 21/4/1996

8) Highlander 45m 16 *
Start 5m R of V and just R of scungy crack. Up wall past FH to stance. Edge up slab above on good finger holds trending slightly R (2 FH's) until you reach the cracks. Fill these with pro then continue up easier slab above on minimal pro to final headwall finish. A small RP and various sized SLCD's protect this last ten metres. Tree belay. Average protection up a sustained slab.
Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 16/6/1996

9) Brick Boxes 20m 20 **
A tribute to urban development. Start 10m R of H. Up wall to ledge. Up R side of this (FH) and crimp onto slabby face (FH). Trend L and up to stance (FH). Traverse R and up wall above passing a FH to chain. An edgy sport climb.
Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie, Karl Curnow 21/4/1996

10) Tribulation 25m 13
From BB's chain climb wall above on marginal protection to top and tree belay. Excellent marbled rock in middle half.
Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow 21/4/1996

11) The Black Planet 20m 20 ** Line of four FH's up excellent face 2m R of BB. Finishes at BB's anchor. Originally led without the first three FH's. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 11/8/1996   12) Flame 'n' Sparks 25m 18 * Start 4m R of TBP below obvious L leaning thin crack. Up this to top then step R and climb excellent wall above (2 FH's) on surprisingly good holds to slabby stance. Continue up past two more FH's to lower off anchor. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 14/7/1996

Above: Neil Monteith on Flame 'n' Sparks

13) Brit Pop 15m 23
A contrived offering starting 6m R of FS at vegetated corner. Easily climb this for 8m until a large jug is found on the R wall. From this swing R onto wall (#1 SLCD in crack). Clip FH and edge like mad up bulging rock to anchor. Can you say sandbag?
Neil Monteith 12/4/1997

14) Liquid Pleasures 15m 18
Start 3m R of BP. Up the crack until it blanks out. Climb the face above on sideclings and poor RP protection to vegetated ledge and tree belay far back. A bold finish.
Neil Monteith 18/5/1996

The next three routes are on a short slabby wall about 20m L of the cave and about five metres R of LP.

15) Vege Abattoir 13m 14
Start 2m L of bolted route (A). Up slab, over small roof to finish at A's chains. Rock is good but protection is non-existent.
FSA Neil Monteith 13/6/1996

16) Armageddon 13m 17 * Popular. Start 5m L of obvious crack. Up easy edgy slab to bulge and BR. Over this with difficulty to slab and FH. Up this past 'fish bowl' jug to double rap anchor. Excellent rock. Ana Greer, Neil Monteith 18/5/1996  17) Inspiration 13m 10 Big crack just R of LP. Up this on good pro and great rock to A's rap anchors. Good if unvegetated. Karl Curnow, Neil Monteith 21/4/1996 A smooth, slabby bouldering wall is situated just R of Inspiration. It is a great warm up for the harder routes.

Above: Alister Robbie leading Armageddon