WOLF'S LAIR CLIMBING GUIDE

Topo

This crag is located in Brooyar State Forest in Queensland about 1km south of the Point Pure carpark towards the camping ground. The cliff is directly opposite and downhill from a small road which branches off on the left.Walk down a vague path on the left side of the cliff to find Predator.

The rock at Wolf's Lair is generally better than most at Brooyar. It is rough, pocketed, overhanging sandstone with some natural seams and horizontal breaks. All routes have bolts and most include a few natural placements and rap chains. All bolts are glue in's.

1) Predator 13m 23
Thin slab (FH) to ledge. Up overhanging wall (#1 cam & two FH's) on great pockets to chain.

FFA Neil Monteith 15/3/98

Neil Monteith on FFA of Predator.
Photo: Alister Robbie '98

2) Awesome Wells 15m 21
A great route up a juggy overhung wall.4 BR's, FH to chain.

FFA Herb Brandimier 1997

3) Awesome Fearsome 15m 22

Hard overhung wall on sharp jugs. BR's & FH.

FFA Herb Brandimier 1997

3B) Sand In My Pants 15m 17
Starts in the fairly obvious corner 2m L of AF. It follows the corner up until you are standing on a ledge next to a large epiphyte, then traverses R to the arête and finishes up the dirty, sandy slab with good pro in the crack in the wall to the R. Not recommended by the first ascentionists.
FFA Tom Walsh, Radomir Schmidt 4/98.

Lee Skidmore cuts loose on the final jug of Awesome Wells.
Photo: Neil Monteith '97

4) Sheep Clothing 13m 21
Stickclip FH then boulder up overhung wall trending right past BR to mini roof and ledge. Thin moves continue up a faint corner past a BR & #1.5 SLCD to finish at chains.

FFA Neil Monteith & Lee Skidmore 15/12/97

5) Suitboy 13m 21

Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arete. Clip FH and climb up and left to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above to chain.

FFA Neil Monteith & Dan Meyers 27/10/97

Neil Monteith flashes the FFA of Sheep Clothing.
Photo: Lee Skidmore '97

6) Carnivore 9m 26+?
Open project. 30' overhung seam with two FH's. Desperate moves up a steep and unforgiving wall. #2 cam for crux and wire for top.

Bolted 25/10/97

6B) The Big Bad Wolf 15m 22/23
The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip (no pikers!), and finish hands-free on the ledge.
Anchor yet to be placed, but probably easiest cleaned by back climbing the route.
FFA Chris Coghill 15/7/2000.

Neil Monteith working the lower moves of Carnivore.
Photo: Alister Robbie '98

7) Bio Logic12m 13
Rap down to tree belay at base of two aretes. Climb the right one past three BR's and a chicken head sling. Overhung in places and very juggy.

FFA Dan Meyers & Neil Monteith 26/10/97

Philippa Newton high and exposed on Bio Logic.
Photo: Neil Monteith

Good bouldering is found on the three metre high wall below Carnivore. No established routes have been recorded as most are around V0. Alister Robbie bouldering the traverse.
Photo: Neil Monteith

1) Predator 13m 23 Thin slab (FH) to ledge. Up overhanging wall (#1 cam & two FH's) on great pockets to chain. FFA Neil Monteith 15/3/98		Neil Monteith on FFA of Predator. Photo: Alister Robbie '98
2) Awesome Wells 15m 21 A great route up a juggy overhung wall.4 BR's, FH to chain. FFA Herb Brandimier 1997 3) Awesome Fearsome 15m 22 Hard overhung wall on sharp jugs. BR's & FH. FFA Herb Brandimier 1997 3B) Sand In My Pants 15m 17 Starts in the fairly obvious corner 2m L of AF. It follows the corner up until you are standing on a ledge next to a large epiphyte, then traverses R to the arête and finishes up the dirty, sandy slab with good pro in the crack in the wall to the R. Not recommended by the first ascentionists. FFA Tom Walsh, Radomir Schmidt 4/98.		Lee Skidmore cuts loose on the final jug of Awesome Wells. Photo: Neil Monteith '97
4) Sheep Clothing 13m 21 Stickclip FH then boulder up overhung wall trending right past BR to mini roof and ledge. Thin moves continue up a faint corner past a BR & #1.5 SLCD to finish at chains. FFA Neil Monteith & Lee Skidmore 15/12/97 5) Suitboy 13m 21 Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arete. Clip FH and climb up and left to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above to chain. FFA Neil Monteith & Dan Meyers 27/10/97		Neil Monteith flashes the FFA of Sheep Clothing. Photo: Lee Skidmore '97
6) Carnivore 9m 26+? Open project. 30' overhung seam with two FH's. Desperate moves up a steep and unforgiving wall. #2 cam for crux and wire for top. Bolted 25/10/97 6B) The Big Bad Wolf 15m 22/23 The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip (no pikers!), and finish hands-free on the ledge. Anchor yet to be placed, but probably easiest cleaned by back climbing the route. FFA Chris Coghill 15/7/2000.		Neil Monteith working the lower moves of Carnivore. Photo: Alister Robbie '98
7) Bio Logic12m 13 Rap down to tree belay at base of two aretes. Climb the right one past three BR's and a chicken head sling. Overhung in places and very juggy. FFA Dan Meyers & Neil Monteith 26/10/97		Philippa Newton high and exposed on Bio Logic. Photo: Neil Monteith
Good bouldering is found on the three metre high wall below Carnivore. No established routes have been recorded as most are around V0.		Alister Robbie bouldering the traverse. Photo: Neil Monteith