The rain came down in torents as we aprouched the Grampains for the first time in several weeks. The new roads around Mt Staplyton had us very confused but we finally made it to the wind swept campground around midnight. The next morning we decided instead of heading to some wet vertical area we would try and locate the mythical Muline Crag in the Victoria Ranges. Another hour of driving across flooded roads got us to our destination. For a warmup we hiked up to the three star Day of the Fox (21) which Nick despatched with ease. This splitter crack is one of the best lines in the Grampains with bomber gear the whole way up. Its a pity its the only route of any worth on the entire cliff.
Nick onsights Day of the Fox (21).
Next we back tracked down the road to Muline Creek and spotted a car parked on the side of the road. It had Westren Oz plates so I made a guess it was either Chris Jones or that new guy who keeps ticking all the hard things in Victoria. We followed a very vauge track through the bush for about 40 minutes and finally crawled up some slabs to be confronted with the glory of the Muline Cave. Its an amazing place on first viewing. Acres of steep ornage rock and plenty of chalked up lines. On the far left HB and Chris Jones were doing a few laps of the excellent Thrash and Dangle (24) so we wandered over to get the guidebook beta from the horses mouth.
HB throws another lap of Thrash and Dangle (24).
I choose the easist line of the cliff, Pocket Full of Dreams (23) for the first route of this crag. A very bouldery start gains some excelent pockets which eventally dry up and force you into a corner and then an overhung face. By the time I was on the last headwall my rope drag was severe and upon reaching the anchor I couldn't pull the rope up enough to clip in. So desperatly extending the anchor by adding three quickdraws I managed to clip directly into my harness and tick the onsight. I was very happy with that.
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Neil onsights the mega classic Pocket Full of Dreams (23)
Chris Jones then decided on a go of After Midnight (26), an amazing thin corner protected mainly by small wires. He easily onsighte dit in his casual and graceful style. This all fell apart when he got to the last few moves which were soaking wet and hard. HB yelled up 'its only grade 19' but Chris looked very worried. He eventually got up it but not without a fair bit of complaining.
Chris Jones onsights After Midnight (26) |
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The rain continued to pour down from outside the cave leaving only one route for Nick and I to try. It was Thrash and Dangle, a pure HB style route. Monster rounded jugs going upside down for about six metres on the under side of the main cave. It ended with a runout finish up big flakes to the anchor. Nick got on first, laying the draws and taking a fiar few rests. I gave it my best shot next falling at the fifth and final bolt. By the end of the climb your right thigh is throbbing from the endless heel hooking. Nick got the redpoint next go with ease but my sucess elded me and after a few more tries I admitted defeat. The walk out was not a pleseant experiance. The wet vegetation made sure my one and only set of pants were soaked and my shoes felt like waterlogged ships.
Nick climbs the awesome roof Thrash and Dangle (24)
Next day we moved on to Centurian Walls to attempt redpoints of the long standing last projects, The Compressor Route and its right hand varient Anti-Christ Superstar. Nick and I threw ourselves on the sustained orange wall for hours and hours with each sucsessive redpoint attempts gaining more gournd and less falls. Eventaully I finally managed to link the lower very steep heel hooking roof traverse with the upper pocketed headwall. My new route, Anti-Christ Superstar 25m 25/26 had finally been done. Nick kept as his for a few more tries but couldn't pull the last final grade 26 crux at the end of the climb. One fall was the best he managed. So some progress was made but still one problem still haunts us at Centurian.
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ABOVE - The hard work of redpoints took it's toll on Neil's fingers. LEFT - Neil on the FFA of Anti-Christ Superstar (25/26) |
Stephen has a go at the horror-show route Sandpit (20) thankfully on toprope.
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