Several weeks ago I started developing another new area in the Grampians. This was at an already established cliff, The Asses Ear, on the western side. This cliff is home to some of the best mid grade two pitch routes in Victoria on immaculate stone. I had re-discovered a large orange boulder just below the main cliff which had only one route on it, a bold grade 22 by Chris Piesker done in the mid 80's. To the left of this line was a clean twenty metre wide blank wall with the occasional pocket and flake. On a previous trip I toproped and bolted two lines on this overhung wall and also soloed a few easier new lines on some of the other boulders.
First up Jono and I climbed a chilly grade 11 on the mainface as a practice run for our forthcoming New Zealand trip. It was Jono's first go at leading and he cruised it. I had to constantly inform him of the fact that he needed to place pro or he would die if he fell off. A successful climb was had and we descended the canyon/chimney that is the descent route. I jumped on my easier bolted project and flashed it with ease. I gained a good solid pump since it overhangs about three metres in thirteen metres height. The second crux comes right at the end with a long reach move on a bulge to a hidden jug. I added a big tick mark to help future ascentists get over this move! I then had a few goes on the companion bolted project, and took many falls. I worked all the moves and felt it should go at grade 24. Rather than trash myself attempting that, I went exploring the surrounding area for some boulder problems.
Neil on the FFA of Rings Around (21) on the Pecking Order Boulder.
I found much that was worthwhile and much that was way too hard. The problems were generally high ball affairs with easy topouts. I struggled up a few V1's and played on some tougher lines. The highlight was sending a great problem that I called 'Fisting' [video], for the obvious reason that it required a dyno to a fist jam. It felt about V3 and took me about twenty tries. There is still tonnes of potential for other problems in the shady forest.
Jono repeats Chicken Run (11) on the Pecking Order Boulder.
Neil on one of the numerous V1's that litter the forest below the main wall.
Rings Around 13m 21 *
Same start as The Pecking Order but head left up overhung orange flakes past 4 rings to twin rings.
FFA Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt 6.1.2001
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