The first climb of the day was my repeat of Poul's route Zero Gravity (17). I found it excellent and now chalked up from James MacIntosh's recent foray to the area. I rapped down and Thomas jumped on one of the classics of my crag, Crescent Crack (20) . He ticked the onsight easily and set-up a toprope on the big obvious corner, named Mercury, just to the left of Crescent Crack. I had previously aided the first half of this route but was stopped by the large off-width half way up. Thomas top-roped the first half, and Poul and I also did it. I placed a bolt at the off-width (described by Thomas as 'size 10 friend placement') and de-rigged the top-rope. It was now time for the first lead attempt. I ticked the lower corner with ease, it involves technical bridging and chimneying @ grade 22. After clipping the bolt I kept on up the looming corner and roof crack above. I desperately jammed left under the roof and finished up an awesome jam corner. The climb took bomber wires the whole way and was one of the best trad style climbs I have done. Solid grade 21 jamming at the end. I also ticked the FFA of a short climb left of the main wall. The short flake was climbed on my second ground up attempt. Throwing loose rock and lichen off mid climb was most enjoyable. It went down at grade 18.
Neil cranks the FFA of Mercury (22) |
Thomas onsights Crescent Crack (20). Mercury is the obvios line to his left. |
We camped at Troopers Creek campground in the vain hope that the mysteries tame Kangraoos would appear. Some 'roos did eventually arrive but we only got to touch their noses before they ran away. It still was quite an experience for the two Euro climbers!
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Thomas checks out the locals! |
The next day we drove to Mt Stapylton were we went straight to Sandanista Wall. Poul won the Paper, Scissors, Rock but backed off the start. My attempt at the onsight was going really well until I pumped off the last jug after cranking the two lower cruxes. Falling from 30m up a 35m route was very annoying. I got back on and got it with no further falls. The climb is so mega classic. It is mostly jugs the whole way up but about 10' overhung and really sustained. On both sides of the wall are grade 30's so the feeling is one of total exposure. The best 23 in Australia? I think it could well be true! Thomas then onsighted the route on my pre-placed gear. Taking photos from absiel was an amazing experience. |
Neil whips off the roof of Sandanista. Check out the shadow to see the size of the fall! |
Thomas onsights Sandanista on pre-placed gear! Click here for another shot
We then moved to Van Dieman's Land, a sport crag on the opposite side of Mt Staplyton to Taipan Wall. On the walk you pass a 300m long wall which is the most perfect piece of rock I have ever seen. Smooth, bulging, orange and unclimbable it is an awe inspiring piece of stone. Maybe one day someone will link something up it somehow I don't think so. VDL is a well used and visually attractive crag. Unlike the poxy Spurt Wall, the climbs here follow natural lines and faces on excellent pocketed rock. My first attempt was Body Count, 25m 24. The climb was mega sustained and required some heavy cranking. I dogged my way up to the last bolt, finding the crux very hard. It involved a sloping layback move in a 30' overhung corner. It didn't help that the last bolt was a couple of metres below my feet! Poul then dogged up a 22 called Terminal Insomnia and then go tit clean on his second go. The climb was again mega sustained and very steep. If you like pockets and big heucos this is the crag for you! I flashed the route soon after. |
Poul ticks Terminial Insomnia on his second try. Cosmic Psycho climbs the orange pockets right of him. |
Thomas onsighted the fantastic 24 Cosmic Psycho which reminded me of some of the routes in Thailand. The same orange rock, the same big heucos and the same rusted bolts! I seconded the route with several rests. Thomas then had a play on a short 26, De La Soul. I scared him silly with the stick-clip by taping the gate of the quickdraw open. He was at the crux move trying to rip off the tape firmly attached around the gate. He was not impressed! On the walk back to the car we passed several other undeveloped crags. We will return!
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Thomas works De La Soul. |
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