Grampains Again

Weekend of the 7th April 2001

Neil, Nick, Brian, Lawence and Pete.

Well another brilliant weekend of climbing was had by all. We met up with the travelling Queenslanders at Mt Zero campground and started the tour. With many 'ohhs and ahhs' at Taipan we sent them up the mega classic 3 pitch Simplteton (18). As they led that Nick and I climbed a 2 pitch 22 called Sluice on the Grey and Green Walls. The first crux pitch, onsighted by Nick, was evil indeed. A very blank near vertical slab with no handholds. The move went something like this - chin up on small edge - lift foot so it is on the same small crimper as your hand - mantle up onto this 'ledge' and stretch at full reach to the next crimper. The upper half of pitch one climbed a very nice water groove with some very dodgy attempts at ringbolts. I think they could have been curtin rings from the hardware store. Anyway, the next pitch was a nice natural line up an overhanging corner. We roped together and simul-climbed down a grade 10 for our descent route. By the time we got back to Simpleton, the guys were halfway up. Nick and I quickly jumped on another 18 next to them and cranked off its 3 pitches to finish just as the other guys were rapping off their line.

Nick seconds the second pitch of Sluice (17), Mt Stapleton

Brian raps of Simpleton (18). The route follows the large crack to his right.

Nick onsights a thin crack (20) at Clike Wall

Next we moved onto Clike Wall for some great single pitch routes. the wind was really howling on this exposed face as I set out on a classic 19 face. This was one of the bets routes I have done in ages. Slightly bold, with three bolts and some small gear in 20 metres. Nick and I then hiked up to the infamous Hollw Mtn Cave to check out some of the real boulder problem of the Grampains. This cave is amazing and HUGE. Most of the problems are in the V10+ sort of range with a few harder things scattered around. Nick and played on some easy things whilst wtaching some euros and a 15 year old kids crank on some V11's. Impressive indeed. The QLD lads went and climbed on Spurt Wall and did the first pitch of Sirocco (22).

A euro guy cranks at Hollow Mtn Cave

The QLDers emerge at Troopers Creek

Dinner and camp was held at Trooprs Creek Campsite, home of the stupidist and tamest kangroos around. Nick proceeded to chase them around, hit them with sticks and generally annoy them. I just patted them and scratched them behind the ears.

We parted ways the next day since it was pouring with rain and the QLD guys were keen to climb some more routes at Spurt Wall. Nick and I went into Centurian and found it nice and dry. First up Nick repeated my Stone Temptress onsight thinking it was more like grade 22 not 21. I seconded it and recieved a massive pump wake up call. We then moved over to the middle wall and started work on the first moves of our project, The Compressor Route. After several attempts Nick cracked the crux (26?) and I moved on up onto the upper part of the route to work the end. I was pumped silly by this stage and only managed about 5m of new climbing and didn't make it to the anchor. Oh well, it will have to wait for another day.

Nick onsights Stone Temptress (22), Centurian

Nick works the lower moves of The Compressor Route (26?)