Exploration in the Gramps

Weekend of the 8-9 August 1998

It was another action packed exploration weeekend in the fabled Grampians (by myself like normal).

I drove up on Friday night arriving at around midnight at my tempary campsite at the base of Lunar Crag. I took special care driving at night as I don't have the money for another $400 car repair bill that the last stupid kangaroo gave me!

I awoke at around nine with the sun streaming into my car. My first priority was to explore and attempt some routes on the left side of the Lower Cliffs. I shunted a slabby face which turned out to be much harder than expected but very un-sustained. The first 10m was around grade 15 then a really hard akward move over a bulge gave the crux, around 22, then an easy grade 10 finish. The rock was similar to the rounded bums of Arapiles but not nearly as nice to climb.

The next few climbs I attempted were on the little block which I call mini Arapiles. It has supurb rock but is only at max 7m high. I shunted four mini routes, all classics, involving long throws and serious overhang manoveres. The rock is great, the jugs are really smooth and well spaced. A great little wall which will stay as a 'top ropeing' only area. If you are silly you could solo them I suppose. Next I wandered along to the far left side of the crag and discovered two new walls each with at least one quality route. The best was a twenty metre smooth arete with excellent polished rock. I shunted this climb at around grade 22 and placed two bolts. The top bit will go on natural gear. The bottom moves are quite thin and balancy with a tricky bulge. The top half is around grade 18 and has two mini roofs. This will be one of the top three routes on my cliff next to Crescent Crack and Sea of Tranquility. The setting for this climb is right beside a small waterfall and the surrounding bush is really lush. A very nice and Tranquil area. I think I will call the route 'Eclipse'.

Mini- Arapiles!

The other wall is quite small (12m) but has one obvious face route on good edges. Should go at around 21. This new area is really cool, most of the walls are really hidden. I had previously been within 50m of both these walls but hadn't seen them. It is very shaded so should be a good summer area. I also discovred a really ex cave and proper waterfall just 100m right of the main Orange cave. It has a nice sandy floor and could house at least 10 campers (or 20 kangaroo's!). My little area is so nice to get away to on the weekend.

Well that was Saturday.

On Sunday I continued my exploration of the northern Grampains. I had sighted on previous trips a big red wall a couple of km's from the road about 15km north by road from my cliff. I packed some food and water and headed on in to check it out. The walk turned out to be really easy. It was just light scrub and completey flat all the way to the base. It took me a bit over 30min. The wall looks like a giant red tidal wave about to crash down on the plains below. Its an amazing looking area. Its orange rock for starters, it overhangs and its bloody hard. It is about 40m high and on the most parts unclimable. The base is especially smooth with the top half more featured. I eyed out at least five good lines along its 400m base. I still can't believe how easy it is to find new crags in Victoria!!

The best route, christianed 'Anit-Christ Superstar' follows a gob smaking line. The start is up a scooped 15' overhung wall with slopers. This first five metres may actually be un-freeable so may need a clip stick 'batman' start. After this you gain a monster protruding jug/ledge thing. From there it is a sustained 35m bright orange slightly overhung face which ends at a small cave. This pitch will be fantastic and proberely around grade 25. From the cave its just a short roof to the top. I hope the start will go free.

The other major line looks to be another classic multi-pitch. The start is up an overhung juggy arete (grade 20??) to a ledge. From the ledge you climb a wall for a few moves then gain a monster break which you traverse along for about 25m until under a BIG roof. The previous climbing has just been to get located under this awesome cieling. About six metres horizontal and with at least three gigantic heuco's this should be a classic. Being about 40m off the deck and already above a large overhang will also help keep those shorts a nice shade of brown!

The new crag.

I also spotted a 30' overhung flake thing that would be really hard. Maybe 29 or something? This crag should be awesome, it is a pity the starts are so hard. I can see potential for lots of link ups once you get off the deck. It is wierd, above this cliff is a monster cliff, 500m wide and 150m high and according to my guidebook only has 15 routes on it. All seem to be classics up major features, ie corners, roofs, cracks. There must be potential for a huge multipitch sport route!!

After taking the opligatary photos I walked back to the car to continue my hunt for cool new areas.

I awlays find it amazing how much I can write when I start talking about climbing!!

The next area I visted was Golton's Gorge, an area frequented by tourists by the bucketful. Its a pity they can't see the proper gorge from their little walking track. I explored the gorge proper by srambling up a few waterfalls and wading through some pools. I found, as I had expected, one of Glen Tempest's most hated areas. In his new guide it was written up in a section titled 'The worst of the worst' and described as such. 'Poxy rock and poxy bolts makes the whole crag a waste of time' I found it to be not that bad although some of the routes did look terrible. It is a sport climbing area put up by Matthew Brooks about three years ago. Most of the routes seem to be really hard (26+) and climb overhung rock similar to Serpent. A couple of climbs look similar to Logan Canyon in the US. Really sharp holds and quite ugly to look at. The setting was really nice though, a big waterfall drops down right next to the main wall and a gurgling creek wanders its way around you feet. One small bouldering wall was really nice. It was the start of some climbs and was 45 degree overhung and had some great pockets. I managed to solo up to the third bolt on one route!! Lets just say the area is quite overbolted!

Bouldering at G-Land.

Many of the routes were very wet, maybe just a hangup from winter.

Next stop on my journey was Mt Stapylton, home of Taipan Wall. I went to check out the fabled 'best bouldering area in the world' or words to that effect published in Rock and Climbing. I didn't manage to find anything that great. It was no better than some stuff I have done in Sydney and on no par with Arapiles. Maybe the area is secret??

I did find a good wall called Windjammer Wall on a butress below Taipan. It is not in any guidebook but seems to have a great selection of 20+ routes on a vertical pocketed face. They are really similar to Blue Mtns routes. The rock was excellent and the bolting was well done. A change for Victoria.

Well that was my weekend.