Weekend Reports

Red Rocks Discovery

Grampians Victoria
14th September 2002
Neil Monteith

I started off with a solo big drive to the Vic Ranges, a good 4 hours of mind numbing Saturday morning driving. Upon arrival I shouldered the monster bolting kit and hiked the easy 15 minutes into the aptly Red Rocks. My first mission was to install ring bolt anchors above my new route, Vertebrae (20) done a few weeks back. This involved soloing a short easy route up the back of the pillar which was done with the aid of a handily placed crashmat. After doing that work I went scouting for a classic boulder problem amongst all the rock in the area. I found one good looking 5m high ball line which I achieved about four metres height. The moss covering the holds above my high point will need removal to un-earth more handholds hopefully.

Next I went to aid another of my routes, One Ring to Bind Them (23), to try and reach the top of the main pillar. This turned into quite a scary route with the top involving some scary moves. The last bit went from a shallow #2 Rock to a crap #2 RP to a skyhook then to a lasso sling around a creaking block then finally to a cam behind two loose blocks. I was completely gripped by the end. This is the amazing thing about the main wall. It is guarded on all sides by steep rock, which means the easiest line up would be the runout Red Raggin (17). After gaining the summit I set up a rap line down the south side to check out a new route I had planned. I self belayed my self on top rope to get the bolt placements right, finding the route to be sustained fingery wall climbing with an exciting roof move down low and a crux of about grade 21. I used the last of the battery power to place seven ringbolts in its 25m length. For the afternoon I went for a stroll up behind the main wall to see if I could spot any other potential. I found a newly bolted route, with three fixed hangers which looked mighty hard. It had a great absence of chalk on it so perhaps it hasn’t been done. I spotted and rapped down a few good looking hard lines to the right which looked similar to Cut Lunch Walls. Lots of good rock and some amazing bouldering potential. The area is so confusing and complex.

I left all my gear at the cliff and retreated back to the car for the night – stupidly leaving my head torch and sleeping mat behind at the crag. On the walk down I saw many emus and kangaroos munching away on the green grass. I was up at dawn and leaping up the hill to dismantle by ropes form the previous day. Another top rope lap of my newly bolted route, so as to check the glue and I rapped back to the ground. I had a go on another good easy line, about grade 17, on the back wall. It had amazing big pockets up a grey slab. The wind was getting ridiculous by this stage and trying to set up ropes was not worth it. I would throw it off the top and it would blow straight back up again, hitting me in the face and wrapping around the closet tree. On the walk down I found another two awesome gear lines, one was a big stunning undercling flake on immaculate orange rock. Perhaps grade 30?

I spent the rest of the afternoon looking at potential on the hill sides above Mt Fox. Apart from the steep bush bash, it was quite a pleasant area with much potential for hard routes up large walls. The main cliff just right of Hollywood Bowl looked especially promising.

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