Centurian Walls Grampians VCC Trip
Photos by Neil Monteith
19/10/02

1Carpark Afterworld Killer Killer
Packed carpark at Centurian Robin onsights Afterworld (23) Robin onsights Killer Wolf (21) Robin onsights Killer Wolf (21)
Liberator Stone Stone zBreakfeast
Micheal seconds Liberator (19) Micheal on Stone Temptress (22) Micheal on Stone Temptress (22), Centurian Walls, Grampians. VCC Camp at Troopers Arms.
zFlowers      
Spring wild-flowers in the northern Grampians.

The VCC Centurion trip was most excellent. When I arrived on Saturday morning there was six cars parked on the road. I hiked in and met the big group - about 15 of them. It was a broad cross section - some bumblys, some gym climbers and Steve Chapman and his mate Robin. I then proceeded to get massively spanked - I think all that thin vertical climbing at Red Rocks has killed my steep climbing ability!

Robin onsighted Killer Wolf (21) first up - but only just as he had to literally dyno to clip the stupid ringbolt. Everyone agrees the bolt needs to be fixed and is the definite crux.

I tried Left Hand Black (23) but couldn't do the move past the 2nd bolt. I got the nice leg hook but the hold above it I just couldn't use it properly. I ended up taking several large whippers before I lowered off. Sandbagging myself on my own routes – not good.

Robin then onsighted Afterworld (23), the RHV to Left Hand Black. It was a great effort and he really took his time using his amazing endurance.

I then led the 18 at the far right of the cliff (Happy Progressive House). I found it to be very nice and I finished more direct this time eliminating all the chossy dirt and finding good gear. Two gym guys seconded me as their first outdoor climb!

I then sandbagged a guy called Michael up Stone Temptress (22). He was going ok until about half way where he was ballisticly pumped and ended up dogging the rest. He spent too much time trying to sort out double ropes and changing gear.

Steve then tried Psychotic Episode (26) but failed to do the lower crux. 'Not his style'. He then tried Compressor Route (27) but couldn't do the first move. I volunteered to give him a demo - and amazingly managed to climb on my second go all the way up to your upper crux! It just shows my memory for the route is still good! Steve had several more goes but couldn't do the lower move. He could slap his hand on the hold but couldn't stick it. He ended up getting a nice flapper on his left hand. After pulling through the crux on the silver jugs he climbed strongly up to my high point - had a go at the crux and pronounced it 'very hard'. He is really keen to go back to try and tick it now that he knows how to do the lower crux.

I then stupidly tried Killer Wolf - without any fixed gear. I went ok up to the stupid ring - but for the life of me I couldn't clip it. I was SUPER pumped at this stage and ended up placing a crappy wire below the RB and aiding up to clip it. I then took several rests to get to the anchor. I now know what it is like to be pumped stupid and trying to clip the last anchor. After that debacle we went back to camp.

So all in all in was a success - the bumblys even repeated the horrible trad routes above Centurion Walls!

Sat nights dinner was excellent at the Troopers Arms pub with about 20 climbers turning up. Luckily our campsite was only a hundred metre walk from the pub!