Weekend Reports

Cut Lunch New Routes

Weekend of the 22nd September 2001

Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon and Marcel Geelen

These are just some pictures from our weekend new routing mission at Cut Lunch Walls, on the back side of Mt Stapyton. We bolted three lines (Tendor Hooks 20m 24?, unamed scoop 17m 25? and an unnamed 20m 21). We managed to climb the 21 just before dark Sunday. We had a bit of a disaster with one of the glue packs. The inner part of the epoxy system ruptured and thus the mix became not 50/50 for one of the bolts. We didn't realize how bad the mix was until after Nick and I had dogged up the route (Tendor Hooks) falling numerous times on the second bolt at the crux. It is about 6m off the deck on a very overhung wall with solid rock to fall on. I was lowering off cleaning the route and I noticed the second bolt was creeping out of its hole!!! So I yanked on it and it came out in my hand. The liquid inside was still wet and never dried. It was grey in colour but obviously not the right mix Eeeekkk! Scary as all hell. So we installed another bolt in which we paid super care to the colour of the two part epoxy coming out of the calking gun. I have to say it put me right off glue-ins. Anyway we threw that glue pack out and used the other one to bolt the other line. So, I have 2 more projects to do.

Neil drills the third bolt on Tender Hooks.

Nick McKinnon on the lower crux of Tender Hooks.

Nick on Tender Hooks at the infamous second bolt.

Nick just before the roof on Tender Hooks.

Nick struggles onto the last headwall of Tender Hooks.

Nick jumars up a fixed line. The wall is rather steep!

Neil on the FFA of an un-named 20m 21 on the left side of Cut Lunch Wall.

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